Sarah Ahmed, The Wine Detective
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Academics turned winemakers Catarina Moreira and David Picard are having a ball making garagiste wines in a quirky garage in Lisbon’s Belém district. The former spray paint bodyshop functions as Adega Belém’s cellar; the tools of a mechanic’s trade don the walls.
The grapes are primarily sourced from Lisbon University’s vineyards. It’s still early days and this is a boundary pushing, innovative project. No holds barred. These honest, fun wines showcase the varieties well and the charming urbanistas’ passion project has a thriving cellar door, offering tastings, winery tours and cold platters.
Adega Belém Unicórnio Graúdo Ânfora Curtimenta 2022
A golden Moscatel with lots of orange peel, blossom and spice to its pear/pear tape fruit. Pithy phenolics lend balance. Nice freshness. Medium length. I preferred this to the curtimenta in barrica, which was a little nutty and dry/astringent. Grape tannins (not wood) good!